Hare Sausages from de Rontzier (Sausages V)

More game sausages.

Hare sausages

1 You chop the hare meat finely (and mix it) with bacon cut into cubes, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, a properly large amount (zimlich viel) sugar and salt, and a little wine. Make small or large sausages in pig guts. You can use these to boil or roast them.

2 You chop hare meat with bacon, thyme, salt and pepper and wrap it in a mutton caul (Hamelßnetz). Roast them on a griddle and paste them with beef fat or dripping. When you wish to serve them, you pour beef broth over them and strew them with salt.

The idea of sweet sausages may put off many modern eaters, but these flavour combinations are common in historic recipes of the time and survive to this day e.g. in Grützwurst. Wrapping sausage filling in cauls to roast or boil it was quite common and these dishes, like meat puddings cooked in stomachs, were classed as a type of sausage.

Franz de Rontzier, head cook to the bishop of Halberstadt and duke of Braunschweig, published his encyclopaedic Kunstbuch von mancherley Essen in 1598. He clearly looks to Marx Rumpolt’s New Kochbuch as the new gold standard, but fails to match it in engaging style or depth. He is thus overshadowed by the twin peaks of Marx Rumpolt and Anna Wecker. What makes his work interesting is the way in which he systematically lists versions of a class of dishes, illustrating the breadth or a court cook’s repertoire. He is also more modernly fashionable than Rumpolt. Looking to France rather than Italy and Spain for inspiration, and some of the dishes he first describes may be genuine innovations.

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