Scrambled Eggs Returned to their Shells

This is an interesting recipe from Cgm 384 II explaining a few common techniques for cooking fancy dishes:

A useful modern tool for the purpose

34 A Dish of Eggs (ayer essen)

A dish of eggs: Take 20 eggs and boil them in water so that the yolk stays just liquid and the white is hard. Take them out and break them open at the tip, and pour out the yolk into a pan. Add fat or oil and stir it with one another over the fire until it turns firm (keck). Then take it out and lay it on a clean plate. Chop it small, and then take one spoon with ginger (ainen löffel mit ymbern) and one spoon with cinnamon and a little saffron, as much as a bean. And one spoon with grains of paradise (ain löffel fol bärißkörner) and sugar and a little salt, and mix it all together. Then take two raw eggs and break them into it, and mix it all together. Afterwards take the chopped (das gehacketes) and fill it into the first eggshells again in which the whites have remained. Have hot water ready beforehand, throw in the eggs and let them boil so that they turn out hard. Then peel them nicely and prepare a thin batter (taiglin) with eggs, saffron, and sugar, and coat the shelled eggs in it. Fry them in a pan, or stick them on a skewer and roast them on a griddle before you fry them. Let the yolk of an egg run over them and strew ginger on it. Serve this as a roast dish and prepare a thin pepper sauce (ain duinn pfefferlin) for them.

The first interesting point in this recipe is that it provides quantities of spices, and given in spoonfuls, no less. This is actually quite unusual. We mostly find either units of weight or very general instructions, but obviously someone was using spoon measures for spices. This is quite generously seasoned.

Eggshells ready for filling

The dish itself is not unusual at all. there are many parallels for eggshells either refilled with the seasoned and sometimes scrambled eggs or with something else, be it meat, fish, or jelly. In this case, they are peeled, battered, fried, and served in a sauce which is surely one of the more complex ways of making spicy scrambled eggs. I haven’t tried it yet, but I hope to do so one day.

Bound together with medicinal, veterinary, and magical texts, the culinary recipes of Munich Cgm 384 were partly published in 1865 as “Ein alemannisches Büchlein von guter Speise“. The manuscript dates to the second half of the fifteenth century. My translation follows the edition by Trude Ehlert in Münchner Kochbuchhandschriften aus dem 15. Jahrhundert, Tupperware Deutschland, Frankfurt 1999, which includes the first section of recipes not published earlier.

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