Egg-Filled Fritters

A recipe from the Innsbruck MS:

77 If you would make filled dough sheets, make the sheets very thin with a rolling pin. Then take eggs and boil them hard, chop them, and prepare them as if you wanted to make halved eggs. Season it and also add honey, and spread this on the sheets. Then prepare a strauben batter and roll them in it, and fry them. Cut them into slices and serve them dry or serve a ziseindel sauce over them.

“Monks’ Eggs” rolled in dough sheets and fried.

Again, we find our ‘sheets’, and here they are clearly of a stiff dough that can be rolled out thin. Pasta dough or even phyllo works, though I prefer using a slightly thicker, leavened dough in most cases. The ‘halved eggs’ referenced here occur earlier in the collection:

54 If you would make halved eggs, boil the eggs hard, shell them, cut them apart and remove the yolks. Chop them and add parsley and season it and salt it, and mix it with another (raw) egg. Fill it back into the white, fry them in fat, and (serve) a pepper sauce (pfefferlein) or a ziseindel sauce over it, or serve them in a yellow sauce (prülein) and salt them, or serve them fried in strauben batter.

So we have cooked egg mixed with spices and parsley and slightly sweetened with honey rolled up in a thin sheet of dough that is then dipped in batter to seal it and fried. The principle was quite common, and I actually tried a fairly similar recipe from the Mittelniederdeutsches Kochbuch a while ago:

90 Item monks’ eggs (monnikeseigere). Take eggs, scramble them and make a sheet (of dough). And put the scrambled eggs into the sheet. And wrap it all around. Take eggs and close (brush) it all around. And fry it in butter or animal fat.

That was pretty good, though I suspect actually dipping the rolls in a thick batter would make them hold together better than brushing them with egg did.

The Innsbrucker Rezeptbuch is a manuscript recipe collection from a South German/Austrian context. It dates to the mid-fifteenth century and survives as part of a set of medical and culinary texts bound together. The editor Doris Aichholzer published it together with two related manuscripts and drew attention to the less elaborate, more practical recipes. The manuscript is of unknown provenance, but has been owned by the Habsburg emperors since at least the early sixteenth century. It is now held at the Nationalbibliothek in Vienna. An edition, German translation and commentary can be found in Doris Aichholzer: Wildu machen ayn guet essen… Drei mittelhochdeutsche Kochbücher, Peter Lang Verlag Berne et al. 1999

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