Eggs on a Skewer

Philippine Welser’s collection also has two recipes for a dish we find in other sources as well: Kroseier.

137 If you want to make kres ayr

Take eggs, open them at the bottom end and pour out the yolk and the white. Prepare them like scrambled eggs and then beat in fresh eggs so they turn nicely soft. Add wine, ginger, saffron, and good herbs and then return the filling to the eggshells. Stick 4 or 5 eggs on a skewer and use sage leaves for the holes so nothing runs out. Lay them on a griddle and let them roast.

138 If you want to fry kros ayr a different way

Open the eggs at the tip and take out the yolk and white. Beat them well together, and chop parsley and sage into it. Spice it as you please and return it to the shells. Close the hole with dough and let them fry slowly. Stir them about occasionally so they do not burn.

The idea of refilling egg shells with various things is common in medieval German recipe collections, and this recipe is easily the most common. It is unusual in having an established name. Kroseier are basically eggshells filled with a mixture of scrambled eggs, seasoning, and raw egg that are cooked, usually roasted, and served in the shell. I am still not quite sure where the name comes from. It may derive from the appearance of the interior which reminded people of innards (Gekröse). I doubt it has anything to do with the word kross (crunchy). These are gratifyingly simple and sound attractive.

Philippine Welser (1527-1580), a member of the prominent and extremely wealthy Welser banking family of Augsburg, was a famous beauty of her day. Scandalously, she secretly married Archduke Ferdinand II of Habsburg in 1557 and followed him first to Bohemia, then to Tyrol. A number of manuscripts are associated with her, most famously a collection of medicinal recipes and one of mainly culinary ones. The recipe collection, addressed as her Kochbuch in German, was most likely produced around 1550 when she was a young woman in Augsburg. It may have been made at the request of her mother and was written by an experienced scribe. Some later additions, though, are in Philippine Welser’s own hand, suggesting she used it.

The manuscript is currently held in the library of Ambras Castle near Innsbruck as PA 1473 and was edited by Gerold Hayer as Das Kochbuch der Philippine Welser (Innsbruck 1983).

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