A Different Almond Cheese

This stands in marked contrast to the previous recipe. From the Dorotheenkloster MS:

34 If you want to prepare almond curd cheese (mändel ziger)

Make milk from one pound (talentum) of almonds. You must pass it through so it stays thick (i.e. through a coarse cloth or sieve). Let it boil, salt it, and add a little wine or vinegar. Pour it on a white cloth and weigh it down so it hardens. Then slice it as you please and (put it) on a platter and add cold milk with sugar. Stick them with almonds, that does no harm. Serve the curd cheese.

This is interesting, and I am honestly not sure that this will work, but I haven’t tried it. The method described here is, of course, how you make acid-coagulated cheese. We have a number of descriptions how it was done using vinegar, wine, or the acidic whey of the last batch. As far as I know, though, the process depends on coagulating the proteins in animal milk and thus should not work with almond milk. Here, it is assumed that it does.

An interesting point is the use of different term: Käse (ches) versus ziger. Today, the distinction is formal. Käse is made from milk, normally using rennet, while Ziger or Zieger is made from whey using acid. It’s unlikely this already applied across the German-speaking world in the 15th century, but there seems to be a sense of distinction at work here that may hinge on the use of an acidic coagulant rather than rennet or a bacterial culture.

The Dorotheenkloster MS is a collection of 268 recipes that is currently held at the Austrian national library as Cod. 2897. It is bound together with other practical texts including a dietetic treatise by Albertus Magnus. The codex was rebound improperly in the 19th century which means the original order of pages is not certain, but the scripts used suggest that part of it dates to the late 14th century, the remainder to the early 15th century.

The Augustine Canons established the monastery of St Dorothea, the Dorotheenkloster, in Vienna in 1414 and we know the codex was held there until its dissolution in 1786, when it passed to the imperial library. Since part of the book appears to be older than 1414, it was probably purchased or brought there by a brother from elsewhere, not created in the monastery.

The text was edited and translated into modern German by Doris Aichholzer in „wildu machen ayn guet essen…“Drei mittelhochdeutsche Kochbücher: Erstedition Übersetzung, Kommentar, Peter Lang Verlag, Berne et al. 1999 on pp. 245-379.

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